Method of waving hair



D. 9, 1941. J. E, SNYDER 2,265,65s y METHOD -OF WAVING HAIR vFiled Jan. 31,. 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Dec. 9, 1941. J; E, SNYDER 22m-,656

METHOD O F wAvING HAIR Filed Jan. 51, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented 9, 1941 LIETHOD F WAVING HAIR James E. Snyder, Miami, Fla., assigner to Rol-0- Wave, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application January 31, 1941, Serial No. 376,898

' (ci. isz-s1) Claim8.

This invention relates to the waving of hair, i. e., linger waving or permanent waving. It will be explained in detail with reference to the former but is also useful and adaptable for performing the latter.

In forming iinger waves from curls by methods known at present, small loops are made by wrapping strands of hair around the operators finger from a point adjacent the-root of. the strand to the free end of it, forming a series of haphazardly arranged circular loops of substantiallyl the same circumference and laterally spaced along the ilnger. lIlhe loop series are thereafter slipped oi the finger-and pinned to the uncurled end of the strand or adjacent strands of hair until set. l

In combing out the set curls, the uncoiled strand section, namely, that zone thereofA from the scalp to the arcuate segment of the iirst loopl of the curl, is unaiifected, so that the eective sinuous wave developed commences at a point from one-half inch to an inch from the scalp. As a result, the operator must of necessity either hide this non-sinuoussection or manually treat the same through moistening and combing in order to provide a continuation of the sinuous formation dened by the combing out of the curl.

It is the object of my invention to avoid the limitations above, by forming curls through imparting successive 4ceiling and turning or revers? ing steps to a strand, so that when after setting it is combed out it has imparted thereto a sinuous'coniormation from the scalp to its free end. In one embodiment of my invention I form the hair into a. strand. and coil it between its free end and a zone extending a short distance from the scalp into continuous spiral loops of increasing or decreasing circumference, and directed forwardly or rearwardly with respect to the area in the scalp from which the strand extends. itsubstanti'ally 189 about the uncoiled zone of the. strand so that it is directed rearwardly or forwardly of the area aforesaid as the case may in opposing directions, such effect being tablished with the same coiling and turning or reversing' steps, but'by directing' the winding of the coils in such adjacent rows in opposing directions.

After forming the curl I turn or reverse' In another lembodiment of this invention I apply essentially the saine coiling and turning or reversing steps to the strand being treated as above outlined, but in addition thereto impart a twisting movement to that portion of the strand being coiled into the respective continuous concentric loops or in the alternative, impart a twist to thatportion of the` strand upon which each successive loop is to be coiled after the preceding loop has been coiled. l

The embodiment of my invention aforesaid lends itself to 'styling in a variety of ways combining curls and waves in unusually attractive arrangements without the necessity of resetting the wave. l

These and other advantages, capabilities and features of the invention willl appear from the subjoined detailed description of one specic embodiment thereof illustrated in thek accompanying drawings, in which p t Figures 1 and 2 are perspective views showing respectively the preliminary combing steps in the preparationof the hair 'for coiling in accordance with my method.

Figure 3 is a perspective view in schematic form indicating a preferred method of deiining the scalp areas for the respective strands.

Figure 4 is a perspective vview illustrating the position o! one of the strandspreparatory to coiling in accordance with my invention.

Figure 5 is a perspective viewillustrating the strand after an initial coiling step has been imy.

parted to form the rst loop.

Figure 6 is a perspective view illustrating the formation and position of a fully coiled strand incorporating a series of continuous spiral loops. Figure 'i is a perspective view illustrating the manipulations involved in turning or reversing the coil of Figure 6. I

Figure 8 is a perspective Aview illustrating the position of the turned or reversed curl.

Figure 9 is a. perspective view indicating the' coiled and reversed curl as fastened. Y

Figure 10 is a schematic view illustrating the positioning and loop formation of the strand respectively during" the coiling and turning steps outlined in Figures 5 to 9.

Figure 11 is a perspective view showing a row of fastened curls made in accordance with the manipulative procedure outlined in Figures 5 to 9. y

Figure 12 is a perspective view showing three rows of fastened curls, the rst made in accordaccordance with the manipulations to be later' described.A

Figure 131s! perspective view illustrating-the initial ceiling step yonta. strand in accordance wlthanotheranbodimmtotmymethod.

FlgureMisaperspectlveviewlllustratingthe twisting step applied to the strand after the coilingoftbeinialloop. v

Vlli'igtn'e'lisaperspectiveviewindieating the coilingstepfcrrformingthesecondlooponmch 1 ngnrersuasehemnt'ieviewmnmtingthe unboounentortne'invenunn mustmtedin Fig ontsomeann retaining othercurlsformedinaccordancewithmyinven- Figuremisaperspectiveviewindicatingthe initialmanipulatingstepforfonningacurlona strandinaocordaneewithasllfurtherembodi-su mentofmyinvention.

Figura 21 to 24 illustrate manipulative-steps 'involvedmformingthecurlinaccordancewith thisturtherembodiment.

ngnnzsaaperepectiveviewsnowingthen resnltingcoil made in accordance with this em- Figure as is a 'schematic view illustrating the positiming and formation of the' strand respecvelydm'ingthecoilingandturningstepsinthe n tionM-I,bymanipulatingtheindexilngerstnd-` embodiment ottheinvenonillustratedinlmillustratemanipulavesteps' involvedinformingclrrlsintheseccndrcw'in accordancewiththisfurtherembodimentt.

nuremisaschemacviewillustratingthe uresmto rn comme ontthemetnna enbodieanmy amil?.` Referngtonguregthereisilhlstratedthe wltbeaehottbeanbodimenisofmymillustrating 2o respectiverowsbeingdesignatedbyAT-m rsttriangularsectionA-I adiacentthepart 3l, drawing itupwardly from the scalp to straighten the same,'and twisting it slightly in 4 thedrection ofthe arrow to form strand S-l. lnFigurestolothereareilhlsh-atedthe'steps involvedintheformationofthecurlinaccordq.

ance with oneV embodiment of my invention, whereinthewindingiscarriedoutfromthefree end ofthestrandtowards thescalp. Y

Referring to'Figure 5, S-I formed by gathering the hair from triangular scalpsectionA-liscoledatitsfreeendtoiorm .arelativelysmallloopL-I deningthecenter 15 portion of the curl K-I being developed.

' Thereafter, through manipulation by the operatorwiththeindexngerandthmnbofeach hand,thestrandS-I isspirallywoundinthe directionofthearrowinFiguretowardsthe scalp,with the loop L-l asthe center,to form a series of concentric spiral loops; as, for example, L-I to L-3,substantiallyinthesame plane. The spiralloops forming the curl K-i are brought into closer proximity-to tighten the coilbydisplacingthehandsinthedirectionof additional loops, so that there isdened at an endproductthecurl K-K-'l oIFigure6,thespiral f winding otthestrand S-l beingterminated at a position spaced fromthescalp secon A-l by the shortlengthofhairM-I. ,1.

Asshowninliguresanditwilhlbeobserved that the curl K-I as wound unterclockwseinthe directionfromtliescalptowardsthe endofthestrandandas showninHgureG, 'is directed rearwardly from the forehead.

ReferringtoFigures 7and8,thetightened spiralcoilK-I ofstrandS-I isturnedorrevversed 180,whi1etwistingtheshorthairsectl'iumhoftherighthandinthedirectonotthe arrowin Figure 7, after ofthe left handhasbeenremoved,sothat.'asshownin Figure8,sectionM-I'ofthestrandhas,during portion of its length M'I, as a continuation ot theoutermostloopL-S ofthe curl;nthecurlbe ingnowposionedgenerallyinthespacedened by the triangular scalp area frolnwhich slzand w S-I extended. The finished curl now runs clockwisenthedirecon'ofthescalptowards invmtlomthebairrstmoistenedwithaslntthe-endofthestrandandisdisposedgenerally ablewavesettinglotmmandcnbedoutmoppotowardstheiorehead'as contrasted with its d isitedirecmasshhwninFigureLtotabrecondurlngthecurlwindingsteps. limacenterputlldenning sections ThetumedovercurlK--Iassbtowninllgure,l P--I andlL-I. Ihereafter-the-hairineaeh Sisthensecuredinplacebyahairpinluntil seciionkcumbed:fromtheioreheadtowark= set. therearinthezenemllinemaninwlnehthe' Flgurelsraphicallydiscltheonenti ilmlmovemmtotthehairistoshowinthe Steps ndltheinl'mediie Products formed ilnhhedcoiiluremchoperambeinggr'aphical thereinonstrandS-Lasitistreated fromthe lyillustratedinlgure2astocneofthescctlons, initialstagetocompletiomasillustrateding- P I,tliesectiolrP--Iontheothersideotthe 'ures4to9,thecentraldividinglineservingto partllbeingsimilariytreated. denne the step products developed in respectively the coiling and reversing steps, as they accordance with the invention; inthe flrst oi. theseiiguresthereareillustratedaseriesof curls 'K-ItoK-I,wo1mdinthe direction ofand made in.accordance with the embodiment outlinedinmures5to10.withrespecttocurl ontlenennun-rungentnnrfnnnthe` thearrowiFigure6,butwithoutaddingany turningandtwistingbeenncorporatedastoa In'Figures 11 and 12, there are illustrated respectively the formation, contour and relative positioning of a series of rows oi curls made vin w Kv-Ltodenethefrontrowotreversecurls; in` tobetbereimttcrdescribemwhichwthesecondof l sacaste 3 three successive rows of reverse curls, of which the curls Kf-l to K'4 of the-second row formed on strands,B'-I to 8'f leading from` scalp sections B-I to B I are initiated at-the free end of the strand by the formation of a loop oppositely directed from those of the curls in the iirst row and the winding thereof to form the-curl, and thereafter the turning or revers- -ing of the formed curl are similarly opposite in direction to that employed with respect to curls of the first row, so that each curl of such section at the conclusion of coiling and after turning or reversing is deilned as being wound counterclockwise in a direction from the scalp towards the end of .the strand and disposed as to be directed rearwardly of the forehead. The curls K-I to K"'4 of the third row of Figure 12 formed from strands S"-I. t0 S"-4 leading s from scalp sections C-l to C`4 are preferably initiated, directionally wound an'd turned identi- A cally with those of the second row. This invention is not limited to any particular direction of curl windingfor respective rows, except that it is preferable to provide that the curls of the rst and second rows be of opposing. directions.

Referring to Figures'l3 to 17, another'embodiment of my method for forming reverse crls is illustrated. In accordance with such embodiment'the hair is treated in thesame manner as that heretofore described with respect to Figures 1 to 5, the direction of the rst loop L'i of the strand S'I leading from scalp section B-I of Figure. 13 being different from that of the strand leading from scalp section A-v-i in Figure 5 in Y that it is intended with respect to these gures to describe this fembodiment in relation to the formation of the second row of curls K', which,

- as heretofore. stated, will be initiated, wound and turned in an opposite direction to those of the first row.

Uponv forming vthe first loop L'| at the free end of the' strand. as illustrated in Figure 13, the strand .S'-i held between the index linger-,and thumb of the operators hands is turned 180 in the direction of the arrow of Figure 13 todene the twist conformation, T-I, definingthe jointure between the rst and second loops, shownl in Figure 14, that as the coiling continues in the direction of the arrow oi' Figure 14, the loops L'-| and.L-,2 will now be inthe position shown in Figure 15. r

After winding one or more additional loops therein, and turning the partially coiled strand 180, upon the formation in the winding step of each successive loop, the coiled strand S-I assumes a position spaced from the scalp by section M-L substantially similar to that shown in Figure 8, except that as heretofore stated, the

of the right hand is placed under the strand of v Figure 16 graphically discloses the operative steps and the intermediate products formed therein on strand S-|, as it is treated from the initial stage to completion, as illustrated in ,developed through a series ofvrows of turned or reversed curls at the rear-*of the'head.

In Figures. 20 to 24 .there are illustrated the steps involved in the preferred embodiment of the method de'ning my invention, the showing in Figures'i20 to 26 being directed to the formation of curls in the iirst row, while the showing of Figuresy 27 to 30 are directed to the formation of curls in the second row. f

The hair with respect to this embodiment is preliminarily treated inf the same manner illustrated in Figures 1 to 4 and outlined in the description-thereof to form the required strand leading from the triangular scalp section A-L In this embodiment, however, instead of forming the` spiral loops from the end of the strand towards the scalp, the winding of the coilformations is developed from the scalp towards the strand end.

Referring to Figures 20 to 24, the strand S-i is grasped between the index finger and thumb of the left hand at a position a short distance from the scalp, the strand being directed rearwardly from the scalp by the index linger, and thereafter forwardly of the scalp by the thumb dening a sinuous conformation for initiating loop L-l. The section M--i from the scalp to the strand grasping point is initially directed A rearwardly from the forehead and will be treated during the turning step. t0 be later described.

At this time the index finger and thumb of the right hand are drawn along the strand S-i to` wards the free end, in the direction of the arrow,

to set the strand in position for the coiling steps, vand the dotted line position of the finger of the right hand, 'as illustrated in Figure 20, determine the length of the portion of the strand which will form .the first full coil L-I'.

Thereafter, as shown in Figure 21, the thumb hair at the spaced position deiined aforesaid.

. direction of the arrow o curl has been wound clockwise' in. the direction l from the scalp towards the free end of the strand, and extends towards the forehead, in

contradistinction to the showing of Figure 6.

The formed coil -K'I is thereafter turned or reversed in the manner shown in Figures? and 8, with la consequent twisting'and ya partial winding of a portion of the twisted section yIDU-I onto the coil, except that theturning isin oppolsitedirectiontothatoi'such1laures,andaan result thereof the curi Lextends rearwardly from the. forehead and the winding thereof is in counwith the index nger moved inwardly and below the thumb. The thumb is theni turned in the e 21 as the index finger is moved laterally, during which operation the section N-I .of the strand between the thumb of the left and right hands is, while being brought between the thumb and index linger of the right hand, as shown in Figure 22, subjected to a twisting action, asshown in Figure 21.

Thereafter, the thumb is rolled along theball of the index finger of the right hand with the section O-f-i of the strand S-I therebetween. to

impart a further twisttothat portion of the .tei-clockwise direction from'the scalp to the free strand N'l between the index fingers. and

thumbs of the two hands, illustrated in the arrow of Figure 22, to develop the full substantially 360 spiral conformation illustrated in Figure 23.

Turning now to Figure 24, the almost completely formed spiral` curl loop I.|I is brought towards the nngers ofthe left hand ,by movement inthe direction of the arrow of the right ures 20 to 25, for coiling 4 movement the loop v'attains the peripheral contour in substantially one plane offa full spiral. The thumb of the left hand is then slightly lifted in order to grip that segment ofthe formed coil positioned thereadjacent in the movement atoresaid and maintained until gripping is accompanied by the index iinger of the right hand.

j Thereafter, with the index finger and thumb ofthe left L-I of the curl, the right hand is moved away to thedotted line position shown in Figure 20 and thereafter the movements and operations of the index finger and thumb'of the right hand are repeated in accordance with the disclosures of Figures 21. to 24 until the requisite number of loops L-I to L-I are formed for the strand being coiled. such intermediate step product being illustrated in Figure 25, from which point the steps and operations of turning and reversing the coil are identical with thcse'outlined -in rela-l ing to define the stepproductsdeveloped in respectively the coiling and reversing steps as they progress.v

A series of curls as formed in Figures 20 to 25.

rows as illustrated. being wound counare applicable in alternate each of the curls of such rows terclockwise in the direction 'from 4the scalp towards theend of the strand and extending upon winding rearwardly from the forehead, after twhich', upon turning or reversing, each ofthe curls rests in the triangular which its strand evolved, and forehead, while its winding from the scalp towards the 4Referring to Figures 27 scalp section from extends towards the is directed clockwise end of the strand.

to 30, operative steps are illustrated for forming the second or altermanipulations of the left and right formation of the initial phases of the loop forma- *form thecompleted loop being a the manipulative movement of the hands, but in nate rows of curls from strands S' emanating from scalp sections B which are wound clockwise from the scalp and extend towards' the forehead when completed, and are thereafter, upon turning orj reversing, directed ,counterclockwise from the scalpand extend rearwardly from the hand holding the rst'formed loop y 2,265,656 I mnd incrigure 23, that at the end of such the strand are of spiral conformation and o f gradually increasing or decreasing size, dependent on whether the coiling is carried' out from the free end of the'strand towards the scalp orA vice versa, the loops ofthe end product curl being substantially in a common plane passing through the strand.

Although no detailed descriptions or illustral tions have been rendered herein with respect to the apparatus to be employed in association with -this method for permanent waving. of hair, it is within the province of this' invention to apply the coiling and turning or reversing .of strands as here described with heating,.steaming or other media for softening the hair, in conjunction with devices for carrying out the above manipulations and maintaining the end products resulting therefrom for action of such media.

I t is obvious that various changes and modiilcations may be made to the detalls oi' construction Without departing :froml the general spirit of the invntion as set forth in the appended claims.

This application is a continuation-impart of my co-pending application, Serial No. 327,805, ied April 4, 1940,V and entitled Method of waving hair.

1. In a method of forming curls for waving by combing out of the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalpfinto a strand, coiling the-strandbetween the free end v of the strand andl a point adjacent the scalp,

. to form a continuous series of spiral tof forehead, such gures being directed to the tion, all of which are identied by identical prime indicia to provide the clockwise wind as differentiated from the vheretofore described counterclockwise wind, the remaining steps to corresponding opposite directions to those shown in corresponding Figures 20 to 24 relating to the formation of a coil in theiirst row.

` and the intermediate vproducts formed therein on strand S'-,I, as it is treated from the l initial stage to completion, as illustrated in Figl 1 ures 27 to 29 for coiling and 7 to 9 for turning,

the central dividing line serving to dene the step products developed in respectively the-coiling and reversing nip'ulations and the step and end products rerespective loops deilningA sulting therefrom, the

hands in' thel continuation in Figure 30 rgraphically discloses the operative y steps 1 imparting' a turning loops. and thereafter turning the curl' about theuncoiled portion of the strand to twist the latter, and maintaining the curlas coiled and turned until set.

2. In a method of forming curls for Waving by combing out ofthe same, the steps including gathering an area of .hair at the scalp into a strand, coiling the strand between the -iree end of the strand and a point adjacent the scalp, to form a continuous series of spiral loops in substantially a common plane passing through the strand, and thereafter turning the curl about the uncoiled portion'of the strand to twist the latter, turned vuntil set.

Y 3. In a method of forming curls for waving byY combing out of the same, the

steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalp into a strand, coiling the -strand between the free end of the strand anda point adjacent the scalp, to form a continuous series of spiral loops in substantially a common` plane passing through the strand, and thereafter turning the curl substantially about the uncoiled lportion of the strandto twist the latter, and maintaining the curl as coiled and turned until set.

4. In `a method of forming curls for waving by combing o ut of the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalp into a strand, coiling the strand between the free end of the strand and a point adjacent the scalp, twist to each loop of the strand being coiled to form a continuous series of spiral loops disposed in substantially a common plane passing through the strand, and

thereafter vturning the curl substantially 180 'I about the uncoiled portion of the strand to twist the lattexgvso that the direction of the curl as turned is substantially opposite to its direction as wound, and maintaining the curl as coiled and turned until set.

and -maintaining the curl as coiled'v and 5. In a method of forming curls for waving Y by combing out of the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalp vinto a strand, coiling the strand between the free end thereof and a point adjacent the scalp to form a continuous series of spiral loops in substantially a common plane passing through the strand, turning the strand about its axis to twist the same in a Zone thereof adjacent the respective spiral loops, and thereafter turning the formed curl substantially 180 about the uncurled portion of the strand to twist the latter, and maintaining the coil as coiled and turned until set.

6. In a method of forming curls for waving by combing Iout oi the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalp into a strand, coiling the strand between the free end.

the strand, and maintaining it coiled until set.

11. In a method of waving the hair on the head, the steps including forming a row bf curls down one side of the face bygathering the hair on small areas of the scalp into strands, coiling the strands counterclockwise into curls directed rearwardly of the head iromthe scalp end of the strands and turning over the resulting curls so they are directed forwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strands, then forming a second row of curls along said first-mentioned row by similarly gathering the hair into strands, coiling the last-mentioned strands clockwise into curls directed forwardly on the head from the scalp end of'the strands and turning over the resulting curls so they are directed rearwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strands,

thereof and a point adjacent the scalp to form a continuous series of spiral loops in substantially a common plane passing through the strand, turningthe strand about its axis substantially 180 to twist the same in a zone thereof adjacent the respective spiral loops, and thereafter turning the formed curl .substantially 180 about the .uncurled portion of the strand to twist the latter, and maintaining the coil as coiled and turned until set. Y Y

.7. In a method of forming curls for waving Vby combing out of the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalp into a strand, coiling the strand between the free end of the strand and a point adjacent the scalp, from the free end of the strand towards the scalp to form 'a continuous series of spiral loops of increasing circumference in substantially a common plane passing through the strand, and thereafter turning the' curl substantially 180 about the uncoiled portion of the strand to twist the latter so that the direction of the curlas turned is substantially opposite to its direction as wound, and maintaining the curl as coiled and turned until set.

8. Ina method of forming curls for waving by combing out of the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the `scalp into aA strand, coiling the strand vbetween the free end and maintaining all the curls coiled until set.

12. In a method of waving the hair on the head, the steps including dampening the hair with wave-set solution, combing the hair toward the back of the head, gathering the hair on a generally triangular area of the scalp adjacent the face into a strand, coiling the strand clockwise into a curl directed forwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strand, turning the resulting curl over so that it is directed rearof the strandand a'point adjacent the scalp from the latter point towards the free end thereo! to form a continuous series of .spiral loops of gradually decreasing circumference as the strand is being coiled and thereafter turning the curl substantially 180 about the uncoiled portion of the strand to twist the latter, so that the direction of the curl as turned is substantially. opposite to its direction as wound and maintaining the curl as coiled and turned until set.

9. In a method'of waving the hair on the head, the steps including gathering the hair on a small area of the scalp adjacent the face. into a strand, coiling the strand counterclockwise into a curl directed rearwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strand, turning the resulting curl over so that itis directed forwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strand, and maintaining it coiled until set.

' 10. In a method of waving the hair on the wardly on the head from the scalp end of the strand, and maintaining it coiled until set.

13. In a method of waving vthe hair on the head, the steps4 including blocking the scalp adjacent the face into generally triangular areas, stranding the hair in each block, then coiling the strands and turning the resulting curls over, thereby forming a Arow of curls directed forwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strands down the side of the face, and a plurality of additional rows generally parallel to the first-menticned row, the curls in the additional rows being directed rearwardly on the head from the scalp end of the strands.

14. In a method or forming curls for waving .by combing out of the same, the steps including the curl substantially about the uncoiled portion of the strand to twist the latter so that the direction of the curl as turned is substantially opposite to its direction as wound, and maintaining the curl as coiled and turned until set.

15. In a method of formingcurls for waving by combing out of the same, the steps including gathering an area of hair at the scalp into a strand coiling the strand between the free end of the strand and a point adjacent the scalp from the latter point towards the free end thereof to form a continuous series of spiral loops, imparting a turning twist to each loop as the strand is being coiled and thereafter turning the curl substantially 180 about the uncoiled portion of the strand to twist the latter, so that the direcion of the curlias turned is substantially opposite to its direction as wound and maintaining the curl as coiled and turned until set..

JAMFB E. SNYDER. 

